Classic Roadster Rear End Question but not shocks!

[Hapnyny]

Hi everyone,

So the Cobra is making a tune of noise in the back end. Shocks are shot but I also thing the bushing are as well. I want to rebuild the rear 8.8 but have some questions?

When I order parts for the rear what should I be looking for as far as year and model? I know the shocks from researching the form, and I got the shocks ordered, but what about the rest. If I gave you a blank check what would you buy? I’m looking to go for one in done or bullet proof. I want this CR to be original in it’s CR hermitage but one amazing build.

Knowledge is what I’m looking for, show me what you got?

Thanks for you intel!

[351C-4V]

I run a 9", but what noise are you talking about?...
is it a wheel rpm noise?...
or only when it is under torque,
or is it about bumps and or road conditions?

[Hapnyny]

It’s clicking as the suspension moves from the driveshaft. I checked the drive shaft and re tightened the bolts. Shocks are original from 1992 as well as the bushing, the car has 10k miles.

[Chicagowil]

Take a look to see if the builder left the ID tag on the rear end. It will be a small metal strip that is secured by a bolt on the rear housing cover. This can be decoded as to what year, open or posi, & ratio.

From there, you can go mild to wild for an upgrade path. Moser makes hardened axles. You can upgrade from 28 splines to 31 splines (axle to center section). You can have the housing strengthened with added metal welded on or even have the left & rt tubes replaced with heavier tubing, that is one of the weak spots for 1/4 mile racing. Also, replace/convert from the C clip retainers that secure the axles to the carrier. I have seen real serious racer types spend as much as $3500 on upgrading the 8.8 rear ends for high HP motors when racing.

But remember, that rear end was designed to handle 400 HP motors in a 3500 lb car. Weight, tire traction and HP all are part of the formula as what strength you need in the CR application.

That said, if I would be looking for what to do, I would convert from the C clip, upgrade to stronger axles, make sure I had posi, add a strengthened alum rear cover with load bolts on the caps, and it should take any power up to about 600 HP in a CR. You will not have enough traction to be able to "hook up" to be able to bust it!

[MaSnaka]

As Chicago said there should be an ID tag on the rear end housing. But...the one on my 8" was not correct. When I upgraded to the Currie 9" I ended up with the same rear end ratio. Not what I was after but ok. I wanted to go from the 411 down to a 375. Turns out I had a 375 in the 8". So I lived with it for some time. It would whine when in a neutral state (not accelerating and not decelerating). When I finally changed to a 350 rear end ratio the mechanic used Richmond gears in the carrier and the whine is gone. I got the ratio change that I wanted, lowered cruising RPM's by about 200. The biggest motivator was going out to the track and getting a little better drivability through the gears. I know it's different than what you're looking at but I wanted to share with you anyway. I also dont understand why you want to stay with the CR heritage. Make it better. I upgraded the drum brakes to 11" discs, the limited slip was shot and needed a rebuild, so I spent some $$ and went with all new parts. Same time I improved the coilover mounts to the frame and rear end.

John

[Sycraft]

I agree, upgrade it. When I was stock it would hook right, now with spherical uppers and Poly mounts in the lowers and coilovers, it hooks and goes....https://www.facebook.com/10000010771...5412128079127/

[byron w]

If you are getting a clicking noise replace the u-joints first. There should be a tag on the rear end to identify it.
Byron

[sunman]

Here at the Hermitage we contemplate the beauty of the Classic Roadsters, Don Scott, Ed Double Venom Combs inspired cantilever mount coil overs.
Supersized at WyattCo with 304 stainless backing plates, QA1 5/8” Kevlar/HDPE spherical bushings, modified Speedway mounts and Grainger 5/8” grade 8 bolts.
Oil-filled ProShocks and new rubber bushings for softer ride.
I invented the anti-wheelhop Quad-Shocks, Ford stole it from me.
Add a piece for frame attachment to the Q-Shock bracket and this is a bolt on Classic Roadsters style system.
Good for small block street rodding.

[Hapnyny]

Okay,

It’s an 8.8 from the factory, what year foxy body rear end? Also it’s a stock 302 what year did they use for 302 engines. I’m thinking 84-85 would be a safe bet but not sure?

Thanks everyone, your giving me some good data!