Front end alignment specifications

[concobra]

I am interested in other Contemporary Cobra owners comments about where they have determined to set their alignment up on their cars. I have the recommended settings in the assembly manual as a starting point.

Those are:
1. toe in = 1.25"
2. Castor = 3-5 degrees
3. Camber = 0 degrees

Here are some car specifications
1. Weight front axle= 1200 lbs.
2. Weigth back axle = 1300 lbs.
3. With my fat butt in the car.
4. Tires are Avons
5. Contemporary model with the front coil overs.
6. I will provide more information if needed.

I am truly interested in those that have spent time racing and tuning their suspension. But I am always interested in everyones opinion that would like to share their perspective.

Thank you for your attention to this matter

Concobra

[mickmate]

Good topic but lets move the decimal point over one place on the toe shall we? I like more caster which has the effect of self straightening and keeping a straight line. The only drawback is a bit more weight and feedback in the steering which I don't mind.

[RICK LAKE]

Concobra If the car has manual steering, here would be good numbers to start with
camber +1 degree r/s +1/2-3/4degree left side. these numbers will change with your weight added to the drivers seat.
caster, this one is a gray area. The question is how you like the car to turn and respond to your inputs. I what tell you to start at a +1-+2 degree pos number and road test the car, See how it feels. It will steer a little slow and not twitch all over the road. If you are a good driver with quick reflexes and strong like bull, anywhere from +3-+5 degrees with make the car a corner carving machine. It will wear on you in a long drive. Want the l/s -.2- -.4 different from L/S to R/S with your weight in it. This will have the car adjust for road crown. If the area where you drive is flat, you can go less.
Toe. The higher the toe, the more stable the car is on the road, It will scrub the tires as you drive. I run between +1/16" in and +3/32" in on the street. This will give good feedback to you and give long milage to the tires.
This is a base for STREET DRIVEN car. If you are looking for real handling you will be looking at different shocks( adjust for dampening & exspandsion ) a higher spring rate on the car by about 35-40%. Larger sway bars. Some track time to do heat checks on the tires and see what the car wants and likes. Nitrogen gas the tires. Helps control heat. As far as wheel size, we have guys running from 15" to 19" wheels and tires. This gets to a point about how you drive. Dick Smith ran 15" wheels and could slide his cobra through turn with perfect control. Takes a couple of years to get this right. I started with 15" wheels and now run 17". Grip and handling are better, but no warning about loosing grip like 15" wheel where they slide and make noise. There are a couple of good books to look at for suspension and understanding it and how it works. If you go to a track, get pictures at the turns. They will show you what the car is doing and how to make adjustments. You will feel a big different when the car turns and handles like a cobra should. good luck Rick L.

[Jerry Clayton]

Pictures at the turns--

I finally have a camera that I like to take action suspension, cornering, drag race launches---it is a Canon E50d and has a setting where it will take 6 shots per second----I find this is much better for these type photos as a video cannot be stopped in the same place twice, etc and the 6 per second gives a repeatable session when diagnosing what the shocks,springs,roll bars are going

[concobra]

To all who responded:

Thank you for your assistance with these specifications. I will move forward and give these a try.

Concobra