ERA Pusher Fans - loose wire?

BCJ · #1 (**permalink**) 07-24-2017, 09:18 AM

I have a 427 and when I switch the fans on (or when they automatically come on) the left one does not start. However, if I then just even slightly push the wiring into the motor or even touch it, the left fan will then start. From there it seems to fluctuate in speed.

Came out of nowhere and the car is somewhat new (#796) --- the only cause I could think of was some hose overspray getting in there when I recently washed the car.

I know nothing about wiring and the issue appears to be in the motor given the above info. Is there any quick fix or suggestion? I ask this question with full awareness that it's very novice. Thanks!

PeteF · #2 (**permalink**) 07-24-2017, 09:39 AM

I had a similar problem, and solved it by putting some dialectric grease on all the electrical plugs/connections, at the fan, the relay on the firewall, and the temp sensor in the lower radiator hose. Dialectric grease is available at any auto parts or hardware store.

patrickt · #3 (**permalink**) 07-24-2017, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BCJ

I know nothing about wiring and the issue appears to be in the motor given the above info. Is there any quick fix or suggestion? I ask this question with full awareness that it's very novice. Thanks!

The fact that you can "jiggle" the wire and get the fan to run means the problem is with that wire.

It's either got a bad feed from the plug that is about two feet up to the driver's side or, more likely, there's a bad connection inside the motor. Considering you're a novice on wiring, I would continue using the jiggle test, starting at the plug that feeds the pusher fans, which is on the driver's side right where the upper radiator hose goes in to the radiator itself. Start wiggling wires, with a mirror positioned so you can see the pusher fan, to find the loose connection. If you determine the loose connection is in the motor itself, cut the wire, unbolt the fan, if it looks like it's really easy to unscrew the casing, then do so. If a loose connection jumps right out and smacks you in the face, then fix it, otherwise just ship it back to Bob P.

strictlypersonl · #4 (**permalink**) 07-24-2017, 02:56 PM

Each of the front fans is connected to a common 4-way plug receptacle that's mounted on the fan crossbar. They are simple push-ins. I would check there first. If you can get the fan working by jiggling the wire there, putting some thin electrical grease on the connection might be a permanent fix.

BCJ · #5 (**permalink**) 07-24-2017, 02:59 PM

Patrick, Pete and Bob: thanks!!!!!!!!!!!

patrickt · #6 (**permalink**) 07-24-2017, 03:30 PM

Now, I love my pusher fans, but there is a better way to have the logic implemented than just having them come on when the puller fan comes on. Plus, there's a high current rush when all three fans come on at the same time, and plus plus they create a single point of failure for overheating. Here's my solution: Cool Modification - For Pusher Fans Only, Though This is how I think ERA should wire them from the factory and, if I was working there, that's how we'd do it. But, they keep losing my damn resume, and I've sent 23 of them in to them.

66AC · #7 (**permalink**) 07-25-2017, 08:49 AM

I have my pusher fans on their own circuit with their own switch on the dash. They do not come on in a thermal switch sense, I simply have to flip a Lucas toggle and they come on. In this setup, it "gives me something to do" especially when coming into slow or stopped traffic. It also adds another switch to the dash which, personally, I like.

How effective are they? Quite. I can see the water temp hold or even lower depending upon the outside temperature.

patrickt · #8 (**permalink**) 07-25-2017, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 66AC

How effective are they? Quite. I can see the water temp hold or even lower depending upon the outside temperature.

Yes, they are surprisingly effective at low speeds. I have my own personal "acid test" with them. When I take a good ride, on a hot day, and pull directly in to the garage and shut her off, without ever using the pusher fans, the thermostatically controlled puller fan will stay on for a couple of minutes there in the garage, with the hood open. But, if I turn the pusher fans on about a block or so from the house and pull in to the garage with them all on, and shut the car off and the pushers off as well, the engine is not hot enough to have the puller come on at all. I think, in a pinch, the pushers could actually get me by without the puller at all... maybe.

66AC · #9 (**permalink**) 07-26-2017, 04:10 AM

I will try that..... good uncontrolled test.
My engine runs cool at about 45 to 55 in 4th gear (3:31 and top loader).
Above that the temp slowly climbs to a steady 180 or 190 (puller kicks in at about, oh, 170 on the uncalibrated water temp gauge) depending on the day and circumstances. However, when my oil temps rise up, then all bets are off. The really warm oil adds quite a lot of thermal mass.

My puller fan and temp sending unit are originals since 1992. Amazing they are still functioning as well as they are.
I wonder what the life expectancy is on the temp sending unit and fan?

strictlypersonl · #10 (**permalink**) 07-26-2017, 05:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 66AC

My puller fan and temp sending unit are originals since 1992. Amazing they are still functioning as well as they are.
I wonder what the life expectancy is on the temp sending unit and fan?

The temperature switch is BMW (only triggering a relay), so it will probably outlast the car (and me).