Motor mount bushing

[Moriarty]

Not sure if this is ERA specific, but since that's what I have I figure this is a good place to start.

Maybe there is a more common name for this, but I'm looking to replace the bushing on the long loose bolt that connects the engine to the frame on the driver's side to dampen engine vibration / absorb torque when rev-ing.

The one the vehicle came with was a nice red, shaped like a small inline rollerblade wheel.

I replaced it last year when all I could find was a black rubber bushing about the same size. That has now destroyed itself already.

I found a DIY polyurethane video online for replacing the rubber mounts in stock BMW mounts, but those come with metal inner and outer wrappings that you can use to just fill up. I guess I could make my own mold, but figured I should ask here first to see what others are doing.

Thanks!

[CJ428CJ]

I think we need more details. It sounds like you may have a torque strap which is designed to keep the engine from lifting up on the left side when you get on the throttle. They're not a standard ERA item. Perhaps you could upload a photo which would help.

[Grubby]

I used the DIY kit and made polyurethane motor mounts.

Yours sounds like a non-typical ERA set up.

John

[patrickt]

Snap a pic of what you used to have and post it. That doesn't sound stock.

[Moriarty]

Swung by the parts store to pick up a new one which reminded me that the "shock absorbing bushing assortment" pack I had bought previously didn't have any of the right size and shape, so I wound up using the rubber insert from an expansion plug replacement. Maybe that's why it didn't last long. Here is a pic without the bushing, and with a new replacement from the $3 expansion plug I'll be using for now.

[patrickt]

Well that looks like it helps the engine from torquing over... but I ain't got one on my FE.

[DanEC]

There is an ERA recommended modification of the driver side engine mount that is intended to accomplish the same thing. Involves drilling the mount across the isolator and installing a bolt to lock the two together so torque movement is restrained.

[Gaz64]

Originally Posted by Moriarty

Swung by the parts store to pick up a new one which reminded me that the "shock absorbing bushing assortment" pack I had bought previously didn't have any of the right size and shape, so I wound up using the rubber insert from an expansion plug replacement. Maybe that's why it didn't last long. Here is a pic without the bushing, and with a new replacement from the $3 expansion plug I'll be using for now.

I would fit a cup washer, even a welch plug with a hole in the centre, to retain the OD of the bush. Your current flat washer will just split the bush you have now.

[Moriarty]

A quick Google search for cup washers led me here:
"APS Barrel Skateboard Bushings | RipTide Sports Inc." https://www.riptidesports.com/longbo...el/aps-barrel/

Never considered using skateboard tech, but that might fit the bill perfectly. Thanks!

[Grubby]

Originally Posted by DanEC

There is an ERA recommended modification of the driver side engine mount that is intended to accomplish the same thing. Involves drilling the mount across the isolator and installing a bolt to lock the two together so torque movement is restrained.

I found the ERA motor mount modification to only be a partial fix. I have seen several ERAs including both of mine that the headers lightly contacted the body.

My solution was to make up polyurthane mounts and do the ERA mod. It seems to work.

The compression of RH mount and expansion LH mount during hard acceleration seems to be the problem. The modification only helps the expansion of the LH mount.

John

[Moriarty]

Now with skateboard bushing and cup washer:

[Gaz64]

Looks nice and professional now.
Keep an eye on it now.
Gary