Leaking radiator

[fintubi]

My radiator in 3014 has developed a leak just below the inlet. System performance is fine, and there's no dramatic discharge of steam or liquid; but after a drive you can smell coolant and hear a slight hiss.

I have a pretty well-regarded radiator shop in my area, but I've read elsewhere on CC that the cores are epoxied to the tanks, making repair infeasible.

Any insights on (a) the construction of the standard radiator on ERA 30xx cars, and (b) the best next step?

Bill

[Tommy]

Some years ago I had a leak in the Griffin radiator in my EM Cobra. I took it to a radiator repair shop and they fixed it with epoxy. So maybe there is hope for yours.

[1985 CCX]

Just add a Fluidyne, one and done!

[strictlypersonl]

Originally Posted by 1985 CCX

Just add a Fluidyne, one and done!

Not quite. The upper inlet hits our chassis "X" and the bottom pin mounts must be shifted. If they modified it to our specs, it looks pretty close.

On the other hand, we've had very few radiator failures over the years.

[twobjshelbys]

I had a shop that would repair the fluidyne but it was almost as much as a new one and since my failure was electrolysis i just replaced it. They woukd have pinched soldered/braised. The new fluidyne had the sacrificial anode - a copper slug. Just like a water heater. I grounded it too.

[Kit Coyle]

Hi Bob,...I have ERA 2064 and also have a very slow radiator leak from an
unknown location. Assuming this 20 year old radiator is unfixable, I have
purchased a Fluidyne FHP35-Shelby replacement which is still in the box.
Does your "not quite fit" comment concerning the poster's 427 ERA also
apply to my 289 FIA car? I do have the heavy duty fan option but that
shouldn't matter. I was hoping for a plug and play but do notice that the "pins"
on the Fluidyne are not drilled for cotter pins...otherwise it looks similar.
Thank you for your advice! Kit Coyle

[Kit Coyle]

The site died just as I submitted this so I am bring it back to life....

[fintubi]

OP here. Just noting that my car is a Slabside, not a 427. So Kit's question about Fluidyne fit in his FIA is relevant to my case too.

Bob, you mentioned interference with the chassis X; is the same issue in play on our small-block cars which have the leaf spring tower instead of the X?

I imagine the pin spacing is still an issue; Kit, please report back if you confirm that problem when/if your rad comes out of the box.

Bill

[strictlypersonl]

Our radiators have a special compact upper fitting to clear the spring perch. It's hard to see from the photo, but you must remember that the radiator is tilted back about 30 degrees and the fitting is headed down.

[Kit Coyle]

Thanks, Bob. I see from your photo and from my ERA 2064 that the upper
inlet /outlet tube is curved tight to the radiator body and raises ~1"above the
upper plane of the body itself. The Fluidyne FHP35-SHELBY unit tube is a
straight piece that is angled up but doesn't rise above the radiator body by
very much. It looks like it might fit but.... In addition, the two lower fixing pins
on the ERA unit are 17 1/2" apart while the pins on the Fluidyne are only 11"
apart. What is the best solution here? Buy a new Radiator from you and hope
I can return the Fluidyne to Summit? Have someone recore my existing ERA
radiator? Have a shop cut the tube and pins off the old radiator and weld them
on to the new one...if that could be even done! Thank you for your help!

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Kit Coyle

Buy a new Radiator from you and hope
I can return the Fluidyne to Summit?

Buy a new one from Bob and return the FD to Summit. They take almost anything back if it's within 90 days and issue a refund. Several times I have ordered three or four of the same, but different parts, so that I could pick the one I liked the most and return the others.

[Kit Coyle]

Good advice...I'll take it!

[dacobb]

I see the tag on that pic is ERA 3025. Is that what number the slabsides are up to now?

Edit: Nevermind I see 3035 is being built now.