Radiator Difference

[PJ UPTMOR]

I am trying to get the water temp down to under 200 in this
Texas heat. I have Mr Gasket thermostat 180 with a spacer that I had machine open another 1|8 larger. I have a elderbrock water pump and march 1910 pulleys which help increase water flow. I have the hd ERA spal fan. The only difference is I have a standard radiator and no radiator stroud . With that being said what is the difference between standard and the hd radiator ?
The car run about 220 to 230 in a short distance before shut it off. This is a new build. I have only 55 miles on the engine.

[Tommy]

Here are the basics of engine cooling as I understand them:
* Be sure engine operation is not producing excessive heat (e.g., timing and air/fuel ratios are correct).
* Coolant is circulating freely through the engine and radiator (e.g., no air bubbles, functioning water pump and thermostat, clean radiator interior).
* Properly sized radiator for engine and conditions (check manufacturers recommendations).
* Adequate air flow through the radiator during all operating conditions (e.g., good fan(s) and shroud, and no obstructions limiting air entering or leaving the radiator).

Given that your engine is new, I suggest you start by looking at its tune. The next thing I'd check is for air in the coolant system. If both of them are right, next look at how air is getting through the radiator. A good shroud can make a lot of difference. When all of those things are right, if it is still running hot, then a higher capacity radiator might be in order.

[joyridin']

You don't say what engine. That might help. The tune as Tommy mentioned above is probably the first item to look at, assuming you don't have something like a faulty temperature sensor.

What temp does the fan come on? With a 180 thermostat, I would assume maybe 185, and shuts off at 175?

[strictlypersonl]

Paul,

Do you have the old 3.5" brass radiator or the newer 2.5" aluminum unit? The latter has been pretty bulletproof as far as cooling some Monsters.

If you have the aluminum radiator, follow Tommy's advice.

[1985 CCX]

One thing I mention is that Cobras heat up fast and cool slower, I run a lower temp Thermo to avoid the higher temperatures from building. Also a good radiator and fan is key. The std Cobra pushers are fun to look at but a strong puller is key.
On the gold car I dont even have a thermostat, I find it heats just fine and thus its without restriction so it also cools faster once under way and air is traveling into front of the car.

I use on all my cars - Fluidyne

[PJ UPTMOR]

The fe 428 was dyno and tune early last year. I have the brass radiator. I have no radiator stroud . Bob would the newer car radiator stroud fit the fiberglass engine 496 car.

[PJ UPTMOR]

The fe 428 was dyno and tune early last year. I have the brass radiator. I have no radiator stroud . Bob would the newer car radiator stroud fit the fiberglass engine 496 car.

[strictlypersonl]

We can put together an (aluminum radiator) update kit for early cars. It includes radiator, fan, shrouds and mounting system. Call or email (erapeterp@gmail.com) Peter for price.

[Tommy]

At the risk of telling you things you already know, I'll add this. One common cause of engine overheating is ignition timing that is not sufficiently advanced at idle and under low load (cruising) conditions. On street cars with distributors that issue is addressed by the vacuum advance system. Race engines often do not have vacuum advance because they operate near wide open throttle much of the time. . . If your distributor does not have a vacuum advance, or if the dyno tuning that was done was mostly at wide open throttle for peak horsepower, then your timing may not be optimized for street driving and that may be contributing to your overheat problem. There are procedures for checking your vacuum advance at idle and partial throttle with a timing light.

[twobjshelbys]

New engine I'd bet running lean. The typical fluidyne size radiator is more than adequate. If you have an oil cooler you're over cooled and will likely have trouble getting to a proper operating temp. If your water pump is pumping (is it running backwards?) Then look to tune

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by PJ UPTMOR

I am trying to get the water temp down to under 200 in this Texas heat. ... The car run[s] about 220 to 230 in a short distance before shut it off. This is a new build. I have only 55 miles on the engine.

Something is not right. I have a big stroked and bored FE, with the ERA HD fan, and pusher fans that only come on with a separate switch -- I don't use them. A few weeks ago I had the car out in almost 100 degree heat with humidity in the 80's. I noticed my puller fan came on more often than normal (I have a little discrete light that tells me the fan is on) but the engine coolant temperature stayed consistently at where it does on 75 degree days with low humidity. That temperature is between 85 and 90 degrees Celsius. Always. The coolant temperature never goes above 90 except when I shut her down and then it can creep up to maybe 93 at the most. My thermostat is the 165 degree one. My oil temperature goes to 90C on a really hot day, and I have an oil cooler which is tastefully blocked off with a removable cover. On that last drive though I had to cut the drive short after a half hour or so because I thought I was going to literally pass out from the heat and humidity. In other words, the car performs better than the driver in brutal heat. I don't know what the issue is with your car, whether it's timing, air flow across the radiator, or what, but trust me, something is not right.

[patrickt]

Here's another small observation which probably doesn't help but I'll make it anyway. If I forget to close off my heater control valve, that sits on the top of the intake manifold and controls coolant flow to the heater core, then in the summertime the engine runs slightly warmer than if I remember to close it off. The coolant that is routed out the intake manifold, through the heater core, and then back to the suction side of the water pump never gets routed through to the radiator so it's already kind of hot. Now, that's not your problem, I just thought I'd mention it. And I know you didn't block off your bypass hose between the top of the water pump and the intake manifold or you would have said that, so that's not your problem. Maybe you have a whopper of an air bubble, but I doubt it. I think it's either engine related or air flow related, that's a WAG.

[mrmustang]

Have we checked the thermostat to see if it is opening properly?
Have we checked to see if the impeller in the water pump is correctly oriented (personal experience with a 428CJ FE powered early ERA)?
Timing and carb adjustment, as stated above, I'd start with timing first.
Has radiator ever been out and hot tanked?
Finally, is there a spring in the lower coolant hose to keep it from being sucked closed?

Bill S.

[DanEC]

I’m with Patrickt - my stroked 428 in my ERA #782 runs cool, probably cooler than ideal with a 160 thermostat. I should put a 180 in it probably. Maybe the aluminum radiator and shrouds will take care of it.

[Grubby]

I will chime in and agree with Dan and Patrick.

My 496 runs right at the T stat rating of 180 with the standard ERA aluminum radiator and fan. It does have the pusher fans, but the fans only come one in stop and go traffic.

It was just short of 100 degrees here a week or so back and no over heat problems at all.

John

[PJ UPTMOR]

I have a spacer between the expansion tank and the manifold so my tank won’t rub my distributor vacuum advance. I am think that restricting the water flow. The next time I have time I am going to remove the thermostat and see how the water temp reacts.
Thank you for all the input on this.
Paul

[PJ UPTMOR]

Plus I will talk to Peter about aluminum radiator and see if the newer radiator stroud fit a 496 car.