FE valve lash question

[lippy]

I know how to adjust valve lash on an FE...check the intake when the exhaust starts to open and the exhaust when the intake starts to close. But I just saw in Steve Christ's book on FEs that he says you only need to check with the crank in two positions: #1 at TDC/compression (check 1 I+E, 3I, 4E, 5E, 7I, 8 I+E) and #6 at TDC/compression (2 I+E, 3E, 4I, 5I, 6 I+E, 7E). Of course this is a lot easier than rotating the crank several times, but I haven't heard of anyone doing it this way before. Has anyone done it this way, and is it ok?

[Bernica]

I've had his book for many years and know what you mean. I think I used his method on a stock 406 years ago, but can't remember if I went back to the other method. Curious what folks think.

[blykins]

Originally Posted by lippy

I know how to adjust valve lash on an FE...check the intake when the exhaust starts to open and the exhaust when the intake starts to close. But I just saw in Steve Christ's book on FEs that he says you only need to check with the crank in two positions: #1 at TDC/compression (check 1 I+E, 3I, 4E, 5E, 7I, 8 I+E) and #6 at TDC/compression (2 I+E, 3E, 4I, 5I, 6 I+E, 7E). Of course this is a lot easier than rotating the crank several times, but I haven't heard of anyone doing it this way before. Has anyone done it this way, and is it ok?

You can do it that way but it's much less accurate when you're working with a cam with lots of overlap...like yours.

For experiment, I've done it both ways and there were about .002-.003" difference. The EVO method is much more accurate...

Remember that Steve Christ wrote that book ages ago....it serves an ok purpose for factory style lower performance builds, but just doesn't serve a purpose for more modern hipo engines.

[lippy]

Thanks Brent. I was hoping you would see that posting. Perfect.

[PaulProe]

Brent
What's your opinion of using that method for adjusting Hydraulic rollers? two or three thousands is no big deal when setting preload

?

Paul

[Bernica]

Patrick is the SFT guy. He should weigh in on his favorite method.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Bernica

Patrick is the SFT guy. He should weigh in on his favorite method.

I use the exhaust open/intake close method. I put my ratchet wrench on the crank bolt, then my jack handle over the ratchet to turn the engine. I adjust the valves cold, and then, when I'm done, I go back and check them all again. I try and get them all to feel exactly the same -- it ends up taking me the better part of a weekend to do it. If I had to bill you for that valve adjusting job you'd crap in your pants when you saw the price tag.

Over this four day Holiday weekend, I did a full chassis lube on the Cobra. That's six universal joints, four ball joints, and two tie rods. It took me two days to do it all.

[Bernica]

[quote=patrickt;1328061]I try and get them all to feel exactly the same -- it ends up taking me the better part of a weekend to do it. If I had to bill you for that valve adjusting job you'd crap in your pants when you saw the price tag.

DAMN Patrick! Keep that day job!

[patrickt]

On the lube, I'm extra, extra, extra careful getting the car up off the ground, because I know, if it comes down on me, it would most likely be several hours before somebody wandered out to the garage and found me, squashed like a bug, gasping for my last breath, or, more likely, already expired....

And then I carefully clean all the u-joints first, so I can see (and hear) the four seals completely purge, as per the Spicer U-joint Video Proper U-Joint Lubrication Then I carefully clean off the excess purged grease. Remember, I have six u-joints to do.

Then I move on to my Moog ball joints, that have the little grease relief valve in the boot, and do something similar. The tie rods have a little covering, instead of a boot, but I still waste a lot of time on them. I can easily spend hours and hours on a simple 10 minute job.

[blykins]

Originally Posted by PaulProe

Brent
What's your opinion of using that method for adjusting Hydraulic rollers? two or three thousands is no big deal when setting preload

?

Paul

Paul, I do them all the same way. You are very correct in that .002-.003" isn't a big deal with hydraulic roller preload, but if you're working on an all-aluminum engine with short travel lifters, every thou counts. A lot of these lifters take about .015" of preload, and an all-aluminum engine will let lash grow/lose preload by about that much.

[CHANMADD]

I like to set mine at the bottom of the lobe...........find max lift point and turn the crank 360.....and then set.I like to set hydraulics with the motor running....adjust so there is no play , turn the required preload ...

[lovehamr]

Originally Posted by CHANMADD

I like to set hydraulics with the motor running....adjust so there is no play , turn the required preload ...

I can understand doing that with a small block where the adjusting nut is stationary while the engine is running but that'd be a trick on an FE.

In fact I'd like to see the video!

[Bernica]

Originally Posted by lovehamr

I can understand doing that with a small block where the adjusting nut is stationary while the engine is running but that'd be a trick on an FE.

In fact I'd like to see the video!

So would I! I can see it on an SB Chebby, but would like to see it on an FE.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Bernica

So would I! I can see it on an SB Chebby, but would like to see it on an FE.

Even with shaft mounted rockers, some guys used to do it all the time. Just go to 332-428 Ford FE Engine Forum and type "adjust valves while engine running" up in the search box and you'll get tons of threads on it along with guys that swear by it. Personally, I've never done it in my life and never plan to.

[PaulProe]

Originally Posted by patrickt

. . . "adjust valves while engine running" . . . you'll get tons of threads on it along with guys that swear by it. Personally, I've never done it in my life and never plan to.

I tasted the kool-aid and am a firm believer that those who say it is good have never done it.

I did try it. What a joke - even at idle rpm, the movement of the wrenches nearly breaks your wrist.

Always looking for an easier way to adjust mine, I think I've tried every method and the EO-IC seems to give the best results, it's just time consuming.

Paul

[CHANMADD]

With rockers........if you slack the lock nuts........so that they can be turned by hand...one can quickly adjust them to zero clatter. Switch off , preload and tighten.......