Clutch problems

[Austria_Cobra]

Hello, my Cobra has an LS6 with probably an LS7 clutch installed, the T56 Magnum gearbox is separated using Tilton 60-6105 (3mm distance).
It was difficult to bleed, but now I have a fixed pedal.
The clutch releases and closes completely.
After a short drive, the pedal returns to its original position more slowly, after a longer drive the clutch slips as soon as you accelerate a little.
Fluid is dripping from the clutch bell, I'm not sure if it's oil or brake fluid. The fluid level in the clutch expansion tank has gone down a bit, but has stabilized.
Could the engine shaft seal be leaking and thus oil getting onto the clutch, causing it to start slipping?
I'm not sure yet where the problem is coming from. Either oil from the engine, a defective clutch or the slave cylinder.
I'm looking for advice to get to the bottom of the problem(s) step by step.
Many thanks

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https://easyupload.io/m/gmjbel

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[Tommy]

Do you have a pedal stop and did you adjust it to preclude overextending the hydraulic throw out bearing (HTOB)? If not, that may be the problem. The gap on the HTOB has to be set to the recommended specs, AND the pedal stop must be set to allow full clutch disengagement WITHOUT overextending the HTOB. If that is not the problem, I can't help much.

[Austria_Cobra]

Thx Tommy

The pedal stop was set so that the clutch completely releases, the vehicle does not move when stationary and the gear is engaged. The endoscope was used to observe how far the fingers are pressed. The ones at the back (which completely lift the friction plate on the presumably LS7 clutch) are only lightly pressed.

After pumping 30 times, it made a noise and then the clutch could no longer be operated.

After disassembly, it became clear that something was wrong. The cause of the clutch was that the friction plate was installed the wrong way round. This meant that the fingers were able to make contact with the center guide.

Is this clutch still OK or was it irreparably damaged?
Is there something to measure or test to show it is fine or not?

The Tilton slave cylinder moves normally, but I assume there is a leak and I don't yet know how to fix it.

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[Tommy]

I'm no expert mechanic but I have dealt with similar issues on two of my cars. My opinion is that the clutch disc may be salvageable if it can be completely cleaned of fluid and there are no obvious physical flaws (e.g., gouges). If the fluid has soaked into the disc material, I'd get a new one. . . As for the leak, I assume it is because the HTOB overextended to where the seal was pushed out of position. Speaking for myself, I'd rather pay for a new one than try to reuse the old one and discover I have to pull the clutch yet again. Perhaps the people at Tilton can provide better guidance.

[Austria_Cobra]

Basically, I would replace the clutch now. The friction plate is dry, it shouldn't have come into contact with any fluid, but the fingers were bent badly, I'm not sure if they're losing power. But it's only my spare engine, which won't be in the Cobra for much longer, so investing in a new clutch should be carefully considered. I'll have the clutch looked at by a company. I think I need to replace the seals on the Tilton slave cylinder, but I live in Europe and the delivery alone costs more than the things themselves.

[Austria_Cobra]

showed the clutch to a company, of course they said - must be new...
I will mount my double plate clutch, which I would have later on the LS3.

the Tilton gets new sealings, Tilton is not willing to send warranty parts.
does cost a lot for me to ship to Europe...