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Post By Hammer65
05-23-2011, 12:03 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sammamish,
WA
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance #2743, Roush 427SR
Posts: 130
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Not Ranked
Sidepipe Bolts
I'm running a Roush 427SR in SPF 2743 and the bolts between the header and sidepipes are loosening. Some of the nuts have even dropped off. I don't think LocTite will hold up under the heat and am looking for a way to prevent this from happening. Any suggestions?
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05-23-2011, 12:59 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Cobra Make, Engine: RUCC, SB 331 Stroker
Posts: 171
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Not Ranked
Grade 8 flanged bolt and cupped flanged locknut or stover nut; all can be had from McMaster Carr.
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05-23-2011, 02:25 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: West Suburbs,
IL
Cobra Make, Engine: Titanium SPF, 521 CID Gessford.
Posts: 338
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Not Ranked
Mine loosen as well.
I've used both grade 8 and stainless. They both have come loose over time. I would suggest a maintenance schedule.
__________________
Join the N.R.A. -- Homeland Security begins in YOUR home.
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05-24-2011, 01:05 PM
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Seasoned Member
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Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Portsmouth,
VA
Cobra Make, Engine: Unique 427 S/C, Dart 427W "Replica" Ford engine
Posts: 584
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Not Ranked
ARP makes a nut that is slightly oval called a Jet Nut. You can probably buy them from Summit. I bought all mine from ARP direct and have never had one come loose.
Bill Stradtner
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05-24-2011, 02:15 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Ellington,
CT
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadster 351W, T5, Red & White
Posts: 3,478
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammer65
I'm running a Roush 427SR in SPF 2743 and the bolts between the header and sidepipes are loosening. Some of the nuts have even dropped off. I don't think LocTite will hold up under the heat and am looking for a way to prevent this from happening. Any suggestions?
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Did Roush and/or the SPF dealer have any suggestions ?
__________________
2014 Porsche Cayman S, 2014 M-B CLA 45 AMG,
Unkown:"Their sweet lines all but take my breath away, and I desire them as much for their beauty as for their use "
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05-24-2011, 03:32 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Perrysburg,
OH
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF #298 427 FI
Posts: 497
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Not Ranked
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05-24-2011, 03:43 PM
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Regularly Offensive
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: yuba city,
ca
Cobra Make, Engine: spf
Posts: 1,231
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Not Ranked
Now Howie, if that was my Spf I would weld them to the heads........... 
I used grade 8 stainless bolts and nuts on Spf 2742. I had my son come over once a month and tighten everything for me. Of course he would have to take the car away for a day or two just to make sure he got it right.
How's the weather in Washington these days?
__________________
Ed
Too close for missles, switching to guns.........
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05-24-2011, 04:13 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Scottsdale,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance, Roush 427R-095, Pro Systems carb, 2" headers, Buckshot Racefab side pipes, 10s off idle start
Posts: 705
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Not Ranked
The first problem I had was chunks of weld around the inside area of the headers and side pipes so they would leak and blow out gaskets. When I put a straight edge on either there were high spots. I fixed that and got new gaskets.
I used regular grade 8 bolts and these if I remember right.
but might have been these.
With the flat matching surfaces they never came loose. The bolts are used once and typically break when you take them off.
Never reuse the bolts even if they come off.
Last edited by greg schroeder; 05-24-2011 at 04:17 PM..
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05-24-2011, 05:51 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Covington,
wa
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance # 532, 466 BB, 560HP
Posts: 3,027
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Neutral
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpanten
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I have had nothing but problems with the Remflex gaskets at the header to side pipe flanges. They say to torque them to 10 to 12 FT/LB. I have tried split washers, star washers and crowned nuts. Some of them loosened and fell off within 20 miles.
I still use the Remflex gaskets at the header to head interface and love them there. Just won't use them at the header to side pipe any longer.
Guess I should add that I used three sets of the flange gaskets and always had the same problems.
__________________
John Hall
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05-24-2011, 07:03 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Florence,
AL
Cobra Make, Engine: RCR GT 40 & 1966 Fairlane 390 5 speed
Posts: 4,511
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Not Ranked
Years ago I had problems with the header gasket till I changed to Percy's Laminated Aluminum gaskets. Because they worked so well I made my flanged gasket from laminated aluminum sheet stock.
I was blowing out flange gasket within 50 miles. Tried red high temp gasket sealer and a gasket. Lastest 20 miles. So I made a sidepipe to header gasket out of laminated aluminum that I bought from McMaster Carr. Solved my leaking problems.
I used stainless bolts with lock washers.
Dwight
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"Happiness Is A Belt-Fed Weapon"
life's goal should be; "to be smarter than inanimate objects"
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05-24-2011, 07:39 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Perrysburg,
OH
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF #298 427 FI
Posts: 497
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverback51
I have had nothing but problems with the Remflex gaskets at the header to side pipe flanges. They say to torque them to 10 to 12 FT/LB. I have tried split washers, star washers and crowned nuts. Some of them loosened and fell off within 20 miles.
I still use the Remflex gaskets at the header to head interface and love them there. Just won't use them at the header to side pipe any longer.
Guess I should add that I used three sets of the flange gaskets and always had the same problems.
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interesting, i had a problem with the bolts falling out before, 2 years now not a loose bolt to be found. I just use the regular bolts and locking nuts and lock washers. I know some people who claim grade 8 bolts make the problem worse but I cant comment. |
05-24-2011, 09:04 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Laguna Hills,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance SPO2820 408W; former ERA CCX 3-3408 owner
Posts: 299
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Not Ranked
Grade 8 bolts and plain, metal lock nuts readily available form the local Ace Hardware. A bear to install and torque down but they have yet to come loose.
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05-25-2011, 02:28 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: auckland nz,
ni
Cobra Make, Engine: DRB (australia)
Posts: 70
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Not Ranked
Castlenated nut and split pin, or lockwire---Mic
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05-25-2011, 04:07 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Near Emerald,
Qld
Cobra Make, Engine: Evans kit, 6 litre, 6 speed, Jag F/R,
Posts: 365
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Not Ranked
Try good old brass nuts
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Missed my Cobra budget by thaaaat much.
Ya get that on big jobs.
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08-20-2011, 06:55 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sammamish,
WA
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance #2743, Roush 427SR
Posts: 130
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Not Ranked
After some research I found "Vibration Proof Washers" and just had them installed on my Superformance sidepipes. They are manufactued in Sweden by Auveco products. The 7/16" size are Auveco #19284. Here thay are referred to as Nord Lock washers. Check Maximum security for bolted joints -Home - Nord-Lock. Here's a video demonstration Nord-Lock Demonstration Video - YouTube. Hopefully this solve the problem. |
08-23-2011, 02:41 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Cobra Make, Engine: Unique Motorcars 289 USRRC, 1964 289 stroked to 331, toploader
Posts: 1,090
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Not Ranked
Interesting demo! Are there direct competing products?
__________________
Paul
Unique Motorcars 289 USRRC
1964 289 5-bolt block
Toploader and 3.31 rear
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08-23-2011, 07:30 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Colorado Springs,
CO
Cobra Make, Engine: Backdraft, supercharged Coyote
Posts: 2,445
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Not Ranked
I beat on my car pretty hard, and this works pretty well for me:
No gaskets anywhere in the exhaust system. High temp silicone only.
SS Grade 8 (brand, not rating) header bolts. I gave up using the locking tabs a long time ago - too much of a pain to R&R. On some spots I use the cheaper black metal bolts that FFR supplied. I hand tighten to about *that* much. All bolts have a split lock washer on them. I check them every so often, but they never come loose.
Standard bolts and nuts on the side pipe flanges, standard flat washers. They happen to be a grade 8 (rating, not brand) fine thread. But that's only because I happen to have a box of them lying around I didn't know what to do with. I tighten them down good and they never come loose. They do look a bit rusty and discolored from the heat. Maybe the rust is a natural thread locker?
As the engine and exhaust warm up and cool down, they expand and contract at differant rates. Sometimes the joint is tight, and sometimes it is not; especially with metal gaskets like copper or alum. When the joint is not tight is when the nut will vibrate loose. This is the perfect spot for a split lock washer; they only work when the fastner comes loose a little bit, and allows the ends to spread out.
Put an internal star washer under the bolt head, a split lock washer under the nut, and no flat washers. TTYF. You might even try a locking nut with a internal star washer between them.
If they still come loose, the problem is not the fastner. The problem is the joint is not flat, and is allowed to rock.
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NASA Rocky Mountain TTU #42
www.RacingtheExocet.com
BDR #1642 - Supercharged Coyote, 6 speed Auto
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