Oil cooler hookup

Davidless · #1 (**permalink**) 06-01-2023, 11:17 AM

Hi all,
I’m starting to dress my 351w 427 ford racing long block. How are you guys installing the oil cooler lines? I don’t think there is frame clearance for an oil line adapter spacer between the block and oil filter. I’m guessing a remote oil filter assembly?

David

Blas · #2 (**permalink**) 06-01-2023, 12:59 PM

You use a 90 degree adapter plate at the block to point the braided hoses towards the front of the engine. (Available at Summit, Jegs, etc.) the SPF chassis has the remote oil filter fitting already mounted. Depend on where you live, an oil thermostat is a good investment.
Avoid tight 90 degree turns, bigger hose is better than smaller hose.
Contact me directly for more info. (My Contact Info is below)
Below.
Blas

Davidless · #3 (**permalink**) 06-01-2023, 01:51 PM

Blas, thanks for the info, I'm wondering if that will interfere with the oil pressure sending unit I'm running between the oil filter (new to be adapter) and fuel pump. There's a 1/2" NPT plug there now which I will remove and install an extension for the sending unit.

Your link doesn't come up

twobjshelbys · #4 (**permalink**) 06-01-2023, 04:45 PM

One thing you will probably notice is that overall the engine will run cooler and may not achieve proper operating temp. You can try to compensate with the water thermostat but eventually you'll want to get the oil cooler thermostat.

UNLESS YOU ARE RUNNING HIGH RPMS FOR EXTENDED PERIODS (as in racing) THE OIL COOLER IS FOR LOOKS. Some people have bypassed it.

Had I kept mine I would have added the thermostat at the beginning of the next season.

Grubby · #5 (**permalink**) 06-01-2023, 05:50 PM

The improved racing oil T stat is designed for easy install.

I mounted my ERA T stat on the left frame rail just behind the radiator.

John

Dominik · #6 (**permalink**) 06-04-2023, 05:09 AM

I took my car on the german highways and backroads for years in the 90s, occasionally exceeding 6.000 rpm for a minute or two (160 mph). I also drag raced the car.

A week after I added an oil cooler back then I taped it closed. Never needed it. Kept it in the "loop" because my Chevy block had outlets for it.

For non-track use it's a waste of time and money, unless you are a very dedicated driver on mountain roads keeping the engine over 4.000 rpm and hardly getting out of second gear.

Or you are racing up and down a german Autobahn without speed limit at 4am.

Unique427 · #7 (**permalink**) 06-04-2023, 08:37 AM

Do any of the aftermarket
themostats use a manual bypass
that stops flow through dedicated lines
and cooler in the event of damage or
failure of the oil cooler?

S1965C · #8 (**permalink**) 06-04-2023, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unique427

Do any of the aftermarket
themostats use a manual bypass
that stops flow through dedicated lines
and cooler in the event of damage or
failure of the oil cooler?

I just keep a precut length of AN hose with the correct fittings to connect the inlet and outlet lines together. Fits easily inside my tool bag.

Davidless · #9 (**permalink**) 06-06-2023, 05:02 AM

I was thinking of using a shut off valve system for bypassing in colder weather. Something to ponder at a later time.

S1965C · #10 (**permalink**) 06-06-2023, 07:34 AM

The Canton oil thermostat is designed to flow 90% of the oil back to the pan until it reaches a proper temp. Flowing 10% ensures that you don’t get a spike of cold oil shocking the bearings when it fully opens.

FredG · #11 (**permalink**) 06-07-2023, 08:14 PM

I have an oil cooler on My Backdraft with a Roush 427r. The car is only street driven. Even on the hottest days, the oil never gets anywhere hot enough. I installed a Improved Oil Thermostat which mounts to the remote oil filter. It brought the temp of the oil up to a barely acceptable minimum.

Fred

scootter · #12 (**permalink**) 06-07-2023, 10:41 PM

My hoses run up into the compartment maybe 5" or 6" and are not connected to anything. Just for looks.
514 on the hottest day and oil temps are always good.

Davidless · #13 (**permalink**) 06-14-2023, 04:39 PM

Hi Guys
Any advice on a SFI rated bellhousing that won't break the bank? I see steel and aluminum as choices but not sure which one would be better since they are both SFI rated

Thanks

David

cycleguy55 · #14 (**permalink**) 06-14-2023, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davidless

I was thinking of using a shut off valve system for bypassing in colder weather. Something to ponder at a later time.

That's what the oil thermostat does - automatically.

Mark IV · #15 (**permalink**) 06-15-2023, 04:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davidless

Hi Guys
Any advice on a SFI rated bellhousing that won't break the bank? I see steel and aluminum as choices but not sure which one would be better since they are both SFI rated

Thanks

David

Use the Quicktime. Steel construction and we have never had one that was out of spec for runout. The non-SFI unit is fine unless you are going racing and need the certification.

xb-60 · #16 (**permalink**) 06-15-2023, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scootter

My hoses run up into the compartment maybe 5" or 6" and are not connected to anything. Just for looks.
514 on the hottest day and oil temps are always good.

If you're adding a cooler for looks, then do what scooter described.

When you add all of the hosing required and the cooler and the thermostat, you are adding a lot of joints/connections that you need to be perfect (and remain perfect over time). If they are not, you could have a blow-off and loose your oil (and your engine).

A short story... a friend lovingly and meticulously built a replica of a 1959 Le Mans Triumph TR3S. The race cars had an oil cooler, so he added an oil cooler to his car.
He was returning home from an interstate trip, and one of the hoses blew off, and he narrowly avoided a totally stuffed engine.

Glen