Clutches, flywheels?

[Davidless]

Hi Guys,
Been reading reviews on clutches so here’s the question, what does everyone recommend? Seems McLeod is popular but just thought I’d ask because it’s year 2023 for any new features.
I think I’ll make low 500hp, street and maybe some track playing.

Thanks

David

[1795]

David,

To some extent it depends on the transmission you are using. If it is a top loader your choices are much more limited than with a modern transmission.

Jim

[Davidless]

Originally Posted by 1795

David,

To some extent it depends on the transmission you are using. If it is a top loader your choices are much more limited than with a modern transmission.

Jim

TKX 5spd

[eschaider]

What you end up using is, in large part, driven by your power level and driving style. This is a picture of the clutch I use;



It is a "home brew' dual disc that I made from commercially available parts at the time. The pressure plate was an FRPP performance unit with a high-ratio diaphragm spring for a softer pedal. The discs were off-the-shelf McLeod 10.5-inch units they used in their (at the time) 'Street Twin' dual disc units. The flywheel was someone's (can't remember who anymore) billet steel wheel. The heat shields on the flywheel were Crower, and the clutch stand bolts were ARP rod bolts.

The flywheel looked like this after machining the perimeter lightning holes and the recess for the heat shields. I am locating their attaching fastener holes below.



Here is the finished flywheel ready for the Crower heat shields;



This is the finished flywheel before balancing;



Here is the finished flywheel being checked and corrected for balance;



And this is the finished assembly before installation;



When you do it yourself, you have complete control over what the finished product will be/look like. So you can make it a custom fit to your personal desires.

This clutch was a 2800lb plate load organic disc unit with a torque capacity of well over 1,000 ft/lbs. I don't recall anymore but want to say it was something like 1,300 ft/lbs. It is an excellent daily driver because of the organic discs and soft pedal. For a track clutch, I would use a more robust lining.

I like the dual disc because of its torque capacity and also because of its soft pedal. That may not be your cup of tea. However, you can brew your cup any way you want when you brew it yourself.

BTW total cost for everything was about $600, as I recall, and that was about ten or twelve years ago. Your ability to do the same thing is only limited by your initiative, access to parts and machinery.

If you opt to buy, you will want to be in the 2400 to 2600 lb plate load window with twin discs and a high finger ratio pressure plate so your left leg does not complain about a stiff clutch.

McLeod (and others) make nice, smaller diameter, twin-disc versions today that will work with your existing flywheel. They are definitely worth a look.


PostScript:

The floater was an off-the-shelf 10.5 inch Crower unit, also.

[kitcarbp]

My advice would be to educate yourself first by speaking to the clutch mfg. tech support teams in hopes of finding a knowledgeable person who can help you select the right clutch for your engine characteristics , intended use, and the TKX transmission.
In my low rpm big block application with a TKO 600 I’m happy with my McLeod clutch which is a street -strip style and does have a little chatter at low rpm street driving due to the dual friction materials I selected. It’s also a heavy clutch pedal to manage the 450hp and 450 lb-ft from my BB 460 using a HTOB. I can’t predict the clutch life for my street driven Big Block, but it’s been flawless in 7,000 miles of street use so far. But I drive it gently on the street. Back in early 2000’s when choosing my clutch I learned a ton speaking to Centerforce, McLeod and Summit tech lines. Opinion: From my OEM days I’m a big fan of the quality and durability of SACHs clutches if you can find one for your application. SACHs clutches deliver to OEMs for millions of cars annually globally and may have a performance high quality clutch for your application.

The twin disc clutch technology has advanced a lot in the last 10 years and should also be investigated for your application since the clutch pedal forces are typically lower if set up correctly with a nice HTOB. It comes down to how much power and torque you’ve set up your drivetrain to handle.and where your weak link is. My weak link are the 9 inch OEM Ford axles.which will break before the rest of the driveline given the sticky tires I use.

[blykins]

I've sold drivetrain parts since 2008. I sell only McLeod and RAM. I've had exactly one warranty return on each brand. Excellent service and excellent performance.

[Davidless]

Thanks for all the responses, I went with the McLeod RST Twin disc after talking to them on the phone, I also like the idea of an easy pedal feel.

My next question when I get to it will be about the Tremec TKX trans ratios, I'm guessing: 0.81:1 overdrive with ratios 2.87-1.89-1.28-1.00-.81 P# TCET18084

[eschaider]

Those are the correct ratios. They will give you similar RPM drops from gear to gear, and the 5th gear overdrive will feel like a natural next gear.

[undy]

I had terrible luck with a McLeod dual disc clutch. It started slipping after 5K miles. Mcleod offered no help, 'cept to rebuild it on my dime. It went in the trash and went with a different MFR. After 20 years in my Cobra my single disc Ram is da bomb, still grabbing as hard as it did when new.

[kitcarbp]

Davidless, now that the easy parts selection is done , tell us what throw out bearing set up you will go with. My McCleod Htob is still working well but its 15 year old technology and Im wondering what folks are installing these days.
Cheers

[Davidless]

Originally Posted by kitcarbp

Davidless, now that the easy parts selection is done , tell us what throw out bearing set up you will go with. My McCleod Htob is still working well but its 15 year old technology and Im wondering what folks are installing these days.
Cheers

I was recommended to run a McLeod hydraulic internal cylinder 1400 series

[ERA174]

David, If you haven’t already tried the Superformance Gear Calculator, I highly recommend you give it a try. They have other calculators in the Technical section which may also be helpful.
https://www.secondstrike.com/Technical/GearCalc.asp

[Grubby]

I run a McLeod Street Twin behind my 496 FE. Brent suggested it and it is a great clutch.

About 2500 miles with no complaints. Time will tell if it will hold up for many years and miles.

John

[Grubby]

I run a McLeod Street Twin behind my 496 FE. Brent suggested it and it is a great clutch.

About 2500 miles with no complaints. Time will tell if it will hold up for many years and miles.

John

[Davidless]

Originally Posted by ERA174

David, If you haven’t already tried the Superformance Gear Calculator, I highly recommend you give it a try. They have other calculators in the Technical section which may also be helpful.
https://www.secondstrike.com/Technical/GearCalc.asp

That's interesting info, but how can it really help me because (since I'm new to the hot rod sports car scene) I don't have any reference as to what the best RPM vs speed would be or is it based on engine HP and torque you choose?.

I guess since I might be more of a cruiser street driver after a year I'd enjoy track day so picking the correct ratios is difficult, but then again since this car has so much HP & torque you would want lower gearing?

Thanks for sharing

David