Quicktime 6060 bellhousing Reducer Bushing Needed?

[Davidless]

Hi All
For the life of me I can't seem to find this info,
I'm indicating my Quicktime bellhousing but not sure if I need to use the reducer bushing for a tremic TKX trans. The OD of the trans flange is not listed anywhere.

Also my Ford 351W long block came with an installed pilot bearing, anyone know what the bearing ID should be to fit the TKX shaft? Don't want to bolt on my flywheel if I have to change the bearing.

Thanks
David

[Mark IV]

Greg has several that I gave him. No cost if you need one.

[Phoenixjeff]

I just finished a few weeks ago putting the RM-6060 bell housing/TKX into my 351W from Blue Print. I believe I did use the reducer, the other ring was too big. I will add a picture or two. Best to put the ring on the TKX shaft before mounting.

[Phoenixjeff]

See Pictures Attached

[Davidless]

Originally Posted by Phoenixjeff

I just finished a few weeks ago putting the RM-6060 bell housing/TKX into my 351W from Blue Print. I believe I did use the reducer, the other ring was too big. I will add a picture or two. Best to put the ring on the TKX shaft before mounting.

Which ring color? silver or yellow? Sorry didn't see pictures, thanks

[Davidless]

Originally Posted by Phoenixjeff

See Pictures Attached

Did the ring change your runout (TIR) numbers on the bellhousing?

I have to use 0.007" offset dowels for BH alignment, unfortunately the great Ford Engineers decided to use a blind hole and a hardened non drillable dowell, now I will have to figure out some kind of jack screw puller to remove, :-(

I ground the hardened surface away on the other dowel and could not get to a softer area, so no drilling for a puller, :-(

Wowe is me

[Phoenixjeff]

I only did the run out with the silver ring in place. I was well within specs, so I cannot answer the question as the ring will be in place at final assembly.

[Phoenixjeff]

The ring has such a close fit/tolerance with the TKX transmission I had to put the bell housing onto the the transmission first and then fit the assembly onto the engine. If you try and place the bell housing on the engine first, that ring wants to walk off the the bell housing and it jambs up the transmission from sliding in. Just my notes though....

[eschaider]

Originally Posted by Davidless

Did the ring change your runout (TIR) numbers on the bellhousing?

I have to use 0.007" offset dowels for BH alignment, unfortunately the great Ford Engineers decided to use a blind hole and a hardened non drillable dowell, now I will have to figure out some kind of jack screw puller to remove, :-(

I ground the hardened surface away on the other dowel and could not get to a softer area, so no drilling for a puller, :-(

Wowe is me

No big deal. Just use a hammer slide dowel pin puller with the appropriate collet. They will come right out without a problem. Replace them with a hardened dowel from McMaster or any other industrial supply. Make the new dowels about five-eighths of an inch longer to register in the stuff you will be welding onto the can.

The Quicktime housings are done on CNC equipment, whereas the old Lakewood stuff seemed to be done with a drill jig. I have always had to align a Lakewood. I have never had to align a Quicktime.

I would encourage you not to use the offset dowel pin alignment procedure. It is imprecise, does not repeat with bell housing removal and replacement (w/o readjustment), and changes as you tighten the bell housing attaching bolts. Did I mention it is a PITA to do?

About 6 years ago, I did a write-up on how to align the bell housing to the block. It covered both the why and also the how-to questions. If you are interested, it's still on Club Cobra; click here => Bellhousing Alignment

The technique I describe will consistently allow you to bring the TIR to 0.001" or less" and it will repeat, with a zero fiddle factor, for as long as you are alive!!

[Davidless]

Originally Posted by eschaider

No big deal. Just use a hammer slide dowel pin puller with the appropriate collet. They will come right out without a problem. Replace them with a hardened dowel from McMaster or any other industrial supply. Make the new dowels about five-eighths of an inch longer to register in the stuff you will be welding onto the can.

The Quicktime housings are done on CNC equipment, whereas the old Lakewood stuff seemed to be done with a drill jig. I have always had to align a Lakewood. I have never had to align a Quicktime.

I would encourage you not to use the offset dowel pin alignment procedure. It is imprecise, does not repeat with bell housing removal and replacement (w/o readjustment), and changes as you tighten the bell housing attaching bolts. Did I mention it is a PITA to do?

Almost 20 years ago, I did a write-up on how to align the bell housings to the blocks. It covered both the why and also the how-to questions. If you are interested, it's still on Club Cobra; click here => Bellhousing Alignment

The technique I describe will consistently allow you to bring the TIR to 0.001" or less" and it will repeat, with a zero fiddle factor, for as long as you are alive!!

To use a slide hammer you need to drill a hole in the dowell center, imposible with a hardened dowell.

[eschaider]

Not true!

You use a collet-style dowel pin puller. They are available in the hammer slide variety and also in an in-line style that also grabs the pin OD, just like the hammer slide variety but uses a progressive wrenching approach for removal instead of the hammer slide impact approach.

These types of tools are not inexpensive. You will end up somewhere north of $150 and south of $200 unless you can find one at a tool rental — which I sort of doubt.

You will find internet search engines quite helpful as you begin your search for the removal tool you like best.

[Davidless]

Originally Posted by eschaider

Not true!

You use a collet-style dowel pin puller. They are available in the hammer slide variety and also in an in-line style that also grabs the pin OD, just like the hammer slide variety but uses a progressive wrenching approach to removal instead of the hammer slide impact approach.

These types of tools are not inexpensive. You will end up somewhere north of $150 and south of $200 unless you can find one at a tool rental — which I sort of doubt.

You will find internet search engines quite helpful as you begin your search for the removal tool you like best.

Thanks but how will the collar grab onto a smooth hardened dowel surface?
I can make a puller for nothing spent but some time.

[eschaider]

You should do what you think is best.