Oil Leak

[WardL]

I have a Roush 427 SRTW engine with a Dart racing block. I've had an oil leak for awhile and need to get it fixed. Someone told me it was a leak around the distributor, but no change after replacing the o-ring. Now I think I should re-torque everything. I'm going to call Roush on Monday to get the torque specs. Any other ideas? It could be a rear main seal, but I hope not. How big of a deal is that to replace? The #460 Roush has about 11,000 miles and has been a great engine for me. It burns a little oil, but not bad.

[madmaxx]

Talk about vague. Soooooo it the leak in front or back? Could just be the oil pressure sensing tube leaking at block. Could be valve cover gaskets, could be intake manifold end seals. Doubt it is rear seal.

[RICK LAKE]

WardL Ward most auto stores sell a leak dye kit. It comes with a dye you pour into the pat of the drivetrain you want to check. Motor, trans mission, rearend, P/s system, etc. Kits has dye, yellow glasses, flashlight. It's easy to use. Pour into engine with motor running and fluid warn for about 5-10 minutes. Bright yellow dye will show with flash light and where leak is coming from. Repair and needed. Rick L.

[mln385]

Any updates?

[WardL]

I torqued the intake manifold to 23-25 Ft-Lbs per Roush and it was very loose. I cleaned the engine a little and drove it 70 miles and it still drips. There are drip points at the rear main seal and in front of the oil pan. I need to torque the oil pan (9-11 3 on big bolts and 7-9 on the small bolts) and clean everything else up. I haven't got the dye. Need to check on that tomorrow. Thanks for asking!

[FOMOCONUT]

Ward, have you replaced the plastic oil pressure line ( plastic ). Wad a paper towel under or around the fitting just outside the block and go for a drive SPF #2773 Jerry

[frdfver]

If the pan gasket has already been tightened to much and the gasket has flattened out no amount of torqueing is going to fix a leak.

Paul T.

[madmaxx]

Impossible to overtighten the oil pan. It has plastic bushings around each bolt and there are "spanner' flanges. The oil pan set up is a work of art on your engine. I doubt it is the oil pan.

It is very possible it was the back of your manifold, nobody realizes yoiu must retorque the manifold bolts through 8-10 heat cycles before they stay tight. I am not saying that is right but that is the way it is.

Once oil drips it takes forever for it to stop even after the leak is repaired since all the oil on the porous block eventually drains down over weeks.

I would focus on the plastic oil line. its a finicky push pull connection. i would tell you how it works but i am afraid you would misunderstand and then the line would blow off as you are driving down the road. My guess it the oil line or intake manifold OR you valve cover gaskets. Did you torque you valve covers they like to leak out and drip down the back. if it is the rear main seal, live with it, its not worth getting into!!!

[WardL]

I believe the source of the oil leak is at the top front of the engine. Everything down and back from there is covered with oil (I'm a procrastinator and let the leak go too long). There was a pool of oil in a water pump cavity on the passenger's side. The distributor is more on the driver's side. Oil is on both sides of the front of the engine, just seems more on the passenger's side. I've torqued the intake manifold (it was amazingly loose!) and replaced the distributor o-ring. Seems like given the location of oil, it would have to be either the intake manifold or the distributor. Does the oil pressure gauge line attach just behind the mechanical fuel pump or is that the tach? Sorry to be so ignorant about this and appreciate any guidance. What a mess to clean up!

[jhv48]

If it isn't a valve cover gasket, it could be the intake manifold gasket. If the intake was loose, the gasket surface at the front could have been compromised. Check around the front of the intake manifold with your finger and see if you feel any oil. If not, then try tightening the valve covers. They get loose too and can be the cause of oil leaks that show up everywhere.

[blykins]

If you use a felpro mls gasket on a dart block, the gasket doesn't reach all the way up to the china wall. If not noticed, this leaves a little gap between the head and block that can catch splash and ooze out.

[Got the Bug]

Your Roush engine was probably built about the same time as mine. The intake gasket failed big time and needed to be replaced.

I also had the oil leak with the plastic oil pressure line that madmaxx described. That was resolved by replacing the plastic line with a braided version (you can probably find the thread with parts and supplier if you do a search).

The other oil leak that I had showed up when the motor was still under warranty. Apparently the oil galley plugs were not installed/sealed correctly, which caused a leak that seemed like a rear seal problem. The clutch also had to be replaced.

If the valve covers have been torqued multiple times, it's possible that the gaskets are toast and need to be replaced.

[Goopie 18]

Even if its not the plastic line, its well worth replacing. Send me a message for details.

[WardL]

I think I have solved the problem. The intake manifold and the valve covers were loose. I wonder what else I'm supposed to torque after 12,000 miles? Oh, I know...Everything else. I've always wanted to take my valve covers off to admire what kind of rocker arms the old Roush has. Turns out they are Scorpion rocker arms. I didn't understand the way the valve covers have a "lid" you can remove without removing the whole valve cover. I assume this makes it easier to service the rockers. I'll try to insert a picture or two....

Now drive for awhile and see what else leaks now before I dive into a undercarriage serious grease removal process. I should have fixed this a LONG time ago! Thanks for all the help with this issue.

[Bxx1]

Very clean.

[MOTORHEAD]

Ward: those are the $1200.00 valve covers !!!!!

[WardL]

Wow, I knew they were expensive when I saw the o-ring seal on the lid.